With his sophomore collection, the designer proved he is embracing the brand's world, aesthetics and values while pushing the envelop farther, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and fits.

The fashion palate cleanser of the season: white. Milan fashion houses, more often than not this season, are opening their runway preview shows for next spring and summer with all-white looks. Tod’s put the emphasis on white with tables of artisans constructing white driving shoes inside the showroom,

In its simplest form, a white tank with Gucci-stripe piping was paired with dark trousers with a hemline slit over sneakers, referencing menswear. In its most elaborate, Gucci-monogram overcoats dragged imperially on the runway, and lingerie peeked out of glossy, textured leather.

Something interesting is happening at Gucci. And I don’t just mean the presence of three formidable blondes – Debbie Harry, Kirsten Dunst and Julia Garner – in the front row.